Hello From Austria A Hike Through The Raabklamm And A Visit To Graz I

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Hello From Austria: A Journey Through the Raabklamm and Graz


Inspired by my cave adventure yesterday, I met my friends Andrea and Herbert early to embark on a hike through the Raabklamm, or Raab River Gorge. This stunning area is surrounded by limestone mountains, home to over 700 caves, including the famous Katerloch and Grasslhöhle, major tourist attractions in the Weiz area.

We drove through the picturesque hills of Göttelsberg, Haselbach, Leska, and Dürntal to park near the gorge's entrance. Andrea handed me Nordic Walking poles, which I was eager to try. Nordic Walking, a sport involving walking with modified ski poles, originated in Finland and Scandinavia and has become increasingly popular across Europe.

Initially skeptical, I quickly realized the poles made uphill and downhill walking easier by providing extra support. The arm motion not only burns up to 40% more calories but also eases pressure on the back, knees, and hips.

Convinced of its benefits, we began our descent into the Raab Valley. The Raabklamm, Austria’s longest gorge, is divided into the Grosse Raabklamm (10 km) and the Kleine Raabklamm (7 km). We headed to the wilder Grosse Raabklamm, known for its vertical limestone cliffs, wooden and suspension bridges, and diverse trails.

The gorge remains naturally preserved, home to foxes, badgers, mouflons, fire salamanders, and a variety of predatory birds. It’s a designated Natura 2000 area, emphasizing its ecological importance. The landscape also features remnants of ancient pine forests and alpine plants.

We only explored part of the Grosse Raabklamm, alternating between trails by the river and those along the slopes. Herbert, ever the entertainer, shook the suspension bridges as we crossed them, but fortunately, they were sturdy and well-maintained. After an hour and a half, we reached a hydroelectric dam, showcasing Austria’s rich history in hydro power development. My hometown of Weiz was a pioneer in this field.

Post-hike, I drove back to our starting point. Andrea and Herbert had to leave, but I planned to continue my journey to Graz, the provincial capital. However, first, I craved a hearty meal. Close by was Gasthaus Reisinger, a cozy establishment offering authentic Austrian delicacies.

A Gasthaus is more rustic than a typical North American restaurant, serving traditional Austrian cuisine, often with outdoor seating. Many also offer bed and breakfast options, attracting visitors from Vienna and Germany.

Seated on the patio, I ordered local specialties: Fritattensuppe (pancake strip soup) and a Mulbratlbrot?"a rye bread slice topped with smoked pork and horseradish. These dishes are perfect snacks for hikers and are a staple at Buschenschanks, local wine farm eateries.

The meal was delightful, set against the serene backdrop of Eastern Styria's rolling hills. I chatted with Mr. Reisinger, the owner, who shared that he left his job in a wood processing plant to run the family Gasthaus full-time.

With a full stomach and an ice cream dessert, I set off for Graz. The drive took me through familiar landscapes, rich with personal memories. Along the way, I stopped to admire the region’s free-range cattle, an integral part of Austria’s economy, and chatted with some lounging cows.

Graz, only 25 km away, is Austria’s second-largest city with a population of about 250,000. Although less famous than Salzburg or Innsbruck, Graz boasts a well-preserved architectural heritage, earning it a UNESCO World Heritage Site designation in 1999 and European Cultural Capital status in 2003. Its name, meaning "little fortress," reflects its historical roots.

Entering Graz, I visited Mariatrost, a suburban area crowned by a majestic pilgrimage church. I parked atop Purberg hill and made my way to the Basilica of Mariatrost, a baroque masterpiece built between 1714 and 1724. Inside, the ceiling frescoes are exceptional, and the 61-meter-high twin towers are visible from afar. The church, accessed via the Angelus Steps, remains a significant pilgrimage site in Styria, second only to Mariazell.

As I continued exploring, the beauty of my homeland filled me with gratitude, reminding me of the richness of Austria’s cultural and natural landscapes.

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