Hello From Austria A Hike Through The Raabklamm And A Visit To Graz II
Below is a MRR and PLR article in category Travel Leisure -> subcategory Vacations.
Hello From Austria: A Journey Through the Raabklamm and Graz (Part II)
Exploring Graz: From Historic Sights to Modern Marvels
Parking in the heart of Graz isn't cheap, with my spot near the Graz Opera House costing over 20 Euros. However, finding affordable parking downtown can be tricky. My adventure began at the Graz Opera House, a stunning neo-baroque structure that opened in 1899 and suffered damage in World War II.
A short walk west led me to Herrengasse, Graz's bustling main shopping street, lined with upscale shops and charming restaurants with outdoor seating. A streetcar line conveniently runs the entire length of this lively area.
Discovering Graz's Rich History
On Herrengasse's west side, I visited two notable attractions: the Landeszeughaus, a fascinating armory museum showcasing 32,000 exhibits like helmets and rifles, and the Landhaus, the seat of the Styrian Provincial Government. Designed by architect Domenico dell’Allio in the 16th century, the Landhaus is a Renaissance masterpiece. Its three-level arcaded courtyard is a must-see, and the southern end offers a relaxing atmosphere at the historic Landhauskeller restaurant.
Across Herrengasse lies the Gemaltes Haus, or Painted House, adorned with baroque frescoes by Johann Mayer, depicting Roman-Greek mythology. Further north, I arrived at the Grazer Hauptplatz, the city’s main square. This triangular plaza is surrounded by vibrant baroque buildings in salmon, ochre, and brick red, each with intricate façade details.
A Stroll Through Graz
On the south side of the Hauptplatz stands the ornate Graz City Hall, fronted by the Erzherzog-Johann-Brunnen, a fountain popular with locals and visitors alike. Nearby stalls offer traditional Austrian treats and seasonal roasted chestnuts. The northeast features the city’s iconic Uhrturm, perched on Schlossberg hill.
Continuing north, I wandered along Sackstrasse to the historic Krebsenkeller, a restaurant dating back to 1538. Across the street, the famed Hotel Erzherzog Johann offers more culinary delights since 1852. Just a bit further, I marveled at a courtyard sculpture adorned with American footballs.
A few steps lead to Schlossbergplatz, a square framed by historical buildings and restaurants, where stairs ascend to the Schlossberg. I crossed the Mur River to visit Murinsel, a striking artificial island from 2003 designed by New York's Vito Acconci. This "sea-shell" structure houses an amphitheater, restaurant, and playground.
Ascending the Schlossberg
Eager to explore the Schlossberg, I took the Schlossbergbahn funicular, part of Graz's public transport system. The original steam-operated funicular began in 1894, with the modern version?"from 2004?"offering panoramic views for just 1.70 Euros. The journey to the top provides a fantastic perspective of the city.
Atop the Schlossberg, I enjoyed the breathtaking view and visited the historic Glockenturm (Bell Tower), home to the massive "Liesl" bell from 1588. The hill once supported a medieval castle, razed under Napoleon in 1809 but sparing the Bell Tower and Uhrturm, thanks to locals' efforts.
Descending into History
South of the Glockenturm, the Stallbastei offers stunning city views with its formidable fortifications. Nearby, the Trkenbrunnen, a deep well, historically supplied essential water. The Uhrturm itself, a symbol of Graz, dates back to 1560 and features a unique clock design with a smaller hour hand.
After enjoying the scenery below the Uhrturm, I descended through park paths and explored the Schlossbergstollen tunnels, used during WWII air raids. At the base, I discovered Karmeliterplatz Square and wished for more time to uncover Graz's hidden courtyards.
Back on Hofgasse, I paused at Edegger-Tax Bakery, Graz's oldest royal bakery from 1569, famous for its intricate carved wooden portal.
Cultural Landmarks and Culinary Delights
Liberty Square, home to Graz's theatre, sits across from the Grazer Dom, a cathedral from 1438 adorned with artwork depicting historical calamities. Next to it, the Mausoleum of Emperor Francis Ferdinand II stands as a testament to early Baroque architecture.
Continuing my walk to Glockenspielplatz, I watched the enchanting carillon, where wooden figures dance daily to 24 bell melodies. This area, known as the "Bermuda Triangle," is Graz's vibrant entertainment hub, bustling with bars and patios.
Back at the Main Square, I admired the Franziskanerkirche and spotted the Kunsthaus, Graz's modern art museum, designed like a futuristic spaceship.
Reflecting on Graz
As my day concluded, I relished my discoveries and returned to relax with family. Despite so much more to explore, I left some sights for my next visit. After a pizza dinner in Weiz, I prepared for tomorrow’s adventure?"a journey to the mountains of Slovenia and Italy!
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