An Excursion by Road to Dalat

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An Excursion by Road to Dalat


Summary

This article recounts one of the many journeys I embarked on by road in South Vietnam, aiming to explore the country and its people. This particular trip took me from Vung Tau to Dalat and back to Saigon.

Journey to Dalat

While driving in South Vietnam, unsure of our destination, we noticed a sign for Dalat. I had heard it described as an appealing old French hill station, reminiscent of British hill stations like Simla. Curious, we decided to head there.

We made our decision without much debate, unaware of how far Dalat was or the condition of the road. Possessing a map was impractical as military maps were dangerous to carry, and others were unreliable. Saigon's traffic was notorious, and in the countryside, a damaged bridge could cause severe delays.

Despite these challenges, the Vietnamese continued to travel the roads, often driving recklessly. Accidents were common, and the Viet Cong sometimes set up roadblocks, capturing those they deemed enemies. Stories circulated, like a French consul who was taken and reportedly died in captivity. Despite the dangers, there was a fatalistic acceptance among the Vietnamese after enduring decades of war.

Traveling further, we noticed the absence of traffic, a potentially ominous sign. I discreetly hid my identification and discarded my license plates. We passed a few quiet villages and a lone Catholic priest on a scooter. PB, my companion from Hanoi, shared her family's tragic experiences with the war.

We devised a plan to pose as a teacher, since my appearance often led locals to mistake me for a French priest. Throughout the journey, PB's delightful mix-up of English adverbs and adjectives made our conversations memorable.

A Scenic Journey

As we continued, the scenery transformed into stunning vistas of lush greenery. Despite our underlying fear, we pushed forward, too committed to turn back. We glimpsed soldiers in the forest, heard machine gun fire, and then nothing.

The road led us to a high plateau with tea or coffee plantations. Memories from that drive, though blurred by time, include receiving bags of freshly roasted robusta coffee, a Vietnamese staple. The tea was served unsweetened, making it a safer beverage choice due to questionable water quality.

Upon reaching the civil airfield in Dalat, we found it inactive?"à typical Vietnamese experience of waiting indefinitely at airfields for flights. The road, now climbing steeply, took us through alpine-like forests with a looming mountain rumored to be a Viet Cong stronghold.

Arriving in Dalat

We reached Dalat without seeing another motorized vehicle, apart from the priest. The town had a distinct French flair and little American presence. There was a curfew at eight, adding to its outdated, tranquil charm. Dalat was known for its agriculture, particularly vegetables and the healthy complexion of its residents.

That night, the sound of gunfire was a constant reminder of the war's presence. With limited time off, our trip was brief, and the next morning we set off on our return journey.

The Return Journey

The drive back was serene, with PB sleeping beside me as we navigated beautiful forests and potential hazards. We stopped for refreshments and encountered a friendly column of South Vietnamese armor. Regional soldiers occasionally requested cigarettes as a token of gratitude for safeguarding the roads.

Upon reaching Saigon, PB's destination, I drove back to Van Kiep, exhausted after driving for nearly eighteen hours over two days.

Conclusion

Shortly after our trip, the road was attacked by the Viet Cong, disrupting travel for days. Tragically, tales of travelers missing or being attacked were not uncommon. It was a reminder of the unpredictable dangers and the need for caution and judgment while navigating South Vietnam's roads during the turbulent times of the Vietnam War.

You can find the original non-AI version of this article here: An Excursion by Road to Dalat.

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