Jewelry In Ancient Rome
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Jewelry in Ancient Rome
Overview
Jewelry has been a captivating fashion accessory since ancient times, serving diverse roles such as political, religious, and ornamental. Artifacts from ancient Rome offer crucial insights into the daily lives of its people, illustrating the importance of jewelry in their culture.
Jewelry in Ancient Rome
Jewelry in ancient Rome was prevalent among both men and women, reflecting social norms and functions of the era. Literary sources and pictorial depictions, like those on the Regina tombstone, along with a wealth of artifacts, help us understand the role jewelry played in Roman society.
Men's Jewelry
While men wore jewelry, it was typically practical and modest. Most men wore a single ring, often a signet ring, used to seal documents. Initially made of iron, these rings later became gold, symbolizing wealth and status. Some signet rings also functioned as keys to secure boxes.
Despite societal norms, some men, influenced by changing fashions, adorned themselves more elaborately. The reign of Emperor Augustus marked a shift in attitudes, as official state attire began incorporating jewelry to denote power and status.
Jewelry with Protective Functions
Jewelry also had protective purposes. Boys wore a "bulla," a necklace with a pouch containing an amulet, typically designed in a phallic shape for luck and protection. While most classes wore bullas, the wealthy had them crafted in gold. Boys sometimes wore small gold rings with similar designs for good fortune.
Women's Jewelry
For women, jewelry primarily symbolized wealth and status, as their clothing did not distinguish social class like men’s attire. Hairstyles and jewelry were key indicators of a woman’s social standing.
The historical significance of jewelry for women is evident. For instance, when the Oppian law of 195 BC restricted jewelry use to support war efforts, women protested vehemently. During Marcus Curellius's campaigns, women donated their jewelry to create a grand gold vase for Delphi, resulting in women gaining the right to be eulogized at funerals.
Variety and Style
The richness of a woman's jewelry varied, with wealthier women showcasing more grandeur and style. Amber jewelry was deemed vulgar by the elite, who preferred gold. Pearls, colored glass beads, and polished stones, often set in gold, were favored materials that signified status.
Women wore a range of jewelry, including necklaces with pendants and amulets. Fibulae, akin to safety pins, served a dual purpose as fasteners and decorative pieces. Earrings came in hoop and drop styles, while rings often featured stones or carvings.
Particularly sought after were engraved gems, known as intaglio. These gems, such as carnelian, jasper, and chalcedony, bore etched designs created with wheels and drills.
Burial Findings
Tomb discoveries reveal that women often wore bracelets in pairs, sometimes up to seven on each arm, highlighting the contrast in conventions between genders. Even gold-thread hairnets have been found, illustrating the opulence of Roman jewelry.
In conclusion, jewelry in ancient Rome was multifaceted, reflecting status, functionality, and personal style. Its impact on society, from signifying power to providing protection, underscores its lasting historical significance.
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