Repairing External Lights On Older Recreational Vehicles
Below is a MRR and PLR article in category Recreation Sports -> subcategory Tennis.
Repairing External Lights on Older Recreational Vehicles
As you enjoy your recreational vehicle over the years, external lights can start to show signs of wear. Running lights may flicker and eventually fail, backup lights can work sporadically, and indicator and stop lights might not effectively warn other drivers.
Start with the Bulbs
Always begin by checking the bulbs. If a bulb is blown, it won't work at all. However, if it's intermittent and the filament appears intact, suspect poor connections.
No need to rush to a repair shop?"this is a task you can tackle yourself, even without electrical expertise. Repair shops often make it seem complicated, but it's actually straightforward.
Warning: If a shop suggests rewiring your lights, consider it a red flag. They might misunderstand the issue or overcharge you. Here's why:
1. Solid Factory Wiring: The wiring for external lights is typically robust and well-secured from the factory. Most issues result from faulty ground connections, which are simple to fix.
2. Wired Connections: Each outboard light usually has one wired connection for a +12 volt battery supply (or two for brake-signal-backup bulbs).
3. Ground Connection: The negative battery connection is grounded to the vehicle chassis, along with the electrical circuits. This setup simplifies power distribution, requiring just one wire per device. The negative connection for an external light uses a sheet metal screw through the RV's aluminum siding.
4. Fuses: If some lights work, the fuses are likely intact.
Ensure the bulbs are functional and that the spring contacts are tight against them. Running lights have one filament, while signal-brake-backup lights have two, meaning two wires and connections at the bulb's back.
Common Issue: The Grounding Screw
The typical problem is with the grounding screw. It's attached to the weakest point?"the thin aluminum exterior. Vibration, weather, and dirt can loosen these screws, leading to arcing electricity and corrosion.
How to Fix It:
1. Remove Light Covers: Larger covers have tabs on the sides?"push one in to lift the cover. Smaller ones pry off with gentle pressure.
2. Inspect and Clean Connections: Examine the grounding screw and metal connection. You’ll likely see corrosion or a loose screw.
3. Polish with Emery Cloth: Remove the screw and clean the connection with fine emery cloth. Also, clean the screw hole in the aluminum siding.
4. Replace the Screw: Use a new screw of the same size. If the hole is enlarged, opt for a slightly larger screw to ensure a secure connection. Avoid longer screws to prevent puncturing anything behind the siding.
5. Waterproofing: Older light covers have flat putty strips inside. Consider replacing these with a thin bead of silicone caulk around the lens edges to keep out dirt and moisture. Clean off all old putty first.
6. Check All Lights: Once you’re at it, inspect all running and signal lights. Tightening all screws will help ensure long-lasting, functional lights. Clean the plastic lenses with a little dish soap for a like-new shine.
With these steps, you’ll enjoy many more years of safe travels with fully operational lights, avoiding fines for improper lighting.
You can find the original non-AI version of this article here: Repairing External Lights On Older Recreational Vehicles.
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